Meet the Costume Designers of “P-Valley”

In the South, the strip club is many things. It's a workplace, a museum of exotic dance and a gathering spot. It's the place where rappers go to test the thump of their latest music. And as Lou Williams just reminded the world, it's a really great restaurant too. It's also the focal point of STARZ latest hit series, P-Valley. Created by Katori Hall, the show follows the grit and glitz of life at The Pynk, a strip club in the Mississippi Delta.

Emmy-nominated Rita McGhee and Alita Bailey are the Costume Designers behind all of the looks on P-Valley. Originally from Guam, the high-energy, loving-spirited sisters have years of experience illustrating and designing the iconic costumes featured in Martin, Chi-Raq (alongside Oscar-winner Ruth Carter), American Soul, The New Edition Story and The Bobby Brown Story. I recently connected with Rita and Alita to discuss looks from the season and what they're most looking forward to now that the series has been renewed for a second season.  Here’s our conversation. 

Living in Atlanta, I’m familiar with the strip club culture, but The Pynk in Mississippi feels different. With the costumes being center stage, how would you describe The Pynk? 

Rita: The Pynk is a small southern staple straight from Katori's creative mind. It's a go-to for everyone from politicians and business owners to partygoers. In episode one, you'll notice the dirty, smelly locker room is filled with color because of the costumes. We were able to bring a lot of life to each scene through our designs.  

Alita: The Pynk is a pillar in the heart of the South. It's in The Bible Belt, which is known for being a religious space. Churches are everywhere, but so are liquor stores and strip clubs. There are also novelty shops that helped us provide a lot of texture - vinyl, feathers, fur. 

What research did you use to create the costumes? Did you visit any strip clubs? 

Rita: No, time didn't allow us to go to any strip clubs, but we were able to harness the value of social media. These girls are real dancers who post content to Instagram and YouTube. So we were able to see them dance, get a sense of their personalities and learn things we needed in order to design their costumes. 

But, Katori's vision was the initial source. She communicated her visual ideas for each character and really pushed creative boundaries. 

Alita: We also learned that dancers prefer a 8-inch platform heel. The super-high, 9 and 10-inch heels aren't made for pole dancing. And sometimes, the heels need to be rigged. The red vinyl thigh-high boots Mercedes wore during her pole performance in the first episode bruised and burned legs during rehearsal. We had to add a piece of fabric to provide a barrier between her skin and the boots.  

Rita: We also had to research creative ways to accessorize nudity knowing there would be a lot with The Pynk in the backdrop. 

How many stunt doubles did each of the four dancers have? 

Rita: There were five professional dancers and five actresses who learned how to dance. We had closets for each of the dancers and their doubles.

That's a lot of costumes! Was there garment construction and/or shopping for the show? 

Rita: We did a combination of shopping and designing. Uncle Clifford's costumes - his red Elizabethan jacket, the Black jacket with colorful embroidery, his neon pink vinyl jacket and so much more- were a Design/Build. Alita sketched and designed the dancer's costumes at Katori’s request. In prep, we began shopping at the novelty shops in LA's strip malls.

Alita: Before and during shooting, we also shopped in Atlanta. Class Hour in College Park was a go-to store.

Rita: Yes! We got the neon light up stilettos that you see in the opening were custom-made from Class Hour.

Alita: It's Jamaican-owned for more than 20 years - a pillar in the community. The owner sells costumes to a lot of dancers in Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi. He also designs costumes for Carnivàle. 

Rita: It's the most unique environment. You walk in, and there are the girls in their slides (comfortable) having conversations about their looks for the night. Alita and I enjoy helping the girls pick out different looks. 

Alita: And there's gospel music playing in the background the entire time! 

Speaking of...The music for 'P-Valley' is phenomenal. I read that Katori is a fan of southern hip hop (Three 6 Mafia, Playa Fly). And I know music is a big part of who you are. What music, if any, inspired you to create the costumes?

Alita: Lots of Southern Hip-Hop and City Girls! 

Rita: We listened to Megan Thee Stallion and DaBaby.

Alita: And Key Glock and Young Dolph.

Rita: The theme song for 'P-Valley' provided a lot of inspiration and Gospel Trap. 

One of my favorite characters is Uncle Clifford. She's non-binary and her costumes speak to the many hats she wears - business owner, mother, protector, provider, lover and friend. Hair, makeup and nails were also key to telling her story. How much did you collaborate with Hair and Makeup? 

Rita: It's important to note that Uncle Clifford is non-binary and uses she terms 'she/her'. She doesn't wear dresses and she does wear many hats. I'm glad you noticed that. 

We didn't have anything before the script. We knew that each of us would bring out a different element of the characters' story so we were excited to collaborate. Katori was the central hub. She communicated her ideas to each department individually and the vision came together beautifully. 

What are some of the things you learned in the process of designing for P-Valley?

Rita: For the first time, the strip club is at the heart of the script with the  stories of complex men and women. Characters like Mercedes, Autumn Night and Uncle Clifford are reminders to be open-minded and willing to learn. Uncle Clifford is a business woman. The dancers are very hardworking artists and athletes. It takes a lot of core strength to pull off the stunts. 

Alita: We are also telling stories that are relevant like land/property ownership, racism, classism, religious freedom...a lot of the things you see today. 

We're only three episodes in and P-Valley has been renewed for a second season. What are you the most looking forward to? 

Rita: Katoria is a master storyteller who opened up a new world, so I'm excited to see where the story goes.

Alita: I'll be excited to be back with the crew and to feel the strong sense of community. 

Complete transparency, I owe a great deal of my experience in costuming to the two of you. I'd be remiss if I didn't ask what advice you'd give to young Black women and men striving to become Costume Designers or are working diligently to reach their goals? 

Rita: Be persistent. Don't give up. Stay prayed up and always do your work unto the Lord, which means to do your job well. Do it with integrity. Don't half step. Don't be mediocre. Stay focused and know that you can always do better. 

Alita: Do whatever you are passionate about at a high level. If you are passionate about stockings, design them in 10,000 colors, textures and patterns. Be willing to persevere over any obstacles. And always strive to be better. Like Rita said, we constantly ask ourselves 'How can we do it better?' Other mantras we repeat are: Steady up. Wiser. Smarter and with a level of excellence