A Conversation with ‘Legendary’ Costume Designer Eric Archibald

HBO Max's Legendary, which is a reality TV competition that explores ballroom culture, is now streaming season two. With members from different houses competing for a $100,000 prize, the panel of judges includes Megan The Stallion, actress Jameela Jamil, celebrity stylist Law Roach and dancer Leiomy Maldonado, also known as the “Wonder Woman of Vogue.” If you're not watching, you're missing out on some incredible voguing and costumes to match. 

Costume Designer Eric Archibald is the fashion and style powerhouse behind the phenomenal looks from host Dashaun Wesley (Magic Mike XXL)and iconic judge Leiomy. Each week, he slays looks for the show, he is Stylist to the Stars and also the  Creative Director of the luxury streetwear brand Diplomacy Worldwide. I reached out to Eric to hear more about his role at Legendary, what’s upcoming for Diplomacy Worldwide, his thoughts on the new wave of Black luxury fashion designers, ballroom culture and more. 

Let's talk about your work on HBO Legendary! You've been a consistent fixture at the top of Fashion and Costume Design starting in 1994. How did you get started in the business?

My introduction into fashion actually was an indirect mishap. I always had an authentic love for fashion because of my mother. I loved watching her and her sisters put on their decadent looks before they went out; it was a beautiful production. Then as I got older, I met Michael Kenneth Williams and one day he said, ‘you should style me’. At the time I didn’t have the slightest idea about what it meant to be a stylist, but I took the opportunity and ran with it. From there, I met June Ambrose and worked with some of hip hop's powerhouses: Busta Rhymes, Missy Elliot, P.Diddy and Nas just to name a few. 

Wow. How did you land the role of Costume Designer at HBO's Legendary?

Well a huge part of my training in fashion was the ball scene. I was a part of the iconic House of Milan. In my late teens, I witnessed the powerful dynamics of fashion through the battles firsthand. The ball scene was not for the faint of heart and when you hit the stage baby you had to slay! So, when I was approached by Legendary they were already familiar with my aesthetic and knowledge of the ballroom scene. 

I love that! We've seen so many of your incredible designs - on the house members and on Leiomy, a legend in the Ballroom scene and a judge on the show. I know a lot went into creating those incredible costumes. Can you walk me through the overall process for creating the looks we see on screen?

Each ball has a theme set by the show. My team and I create costumes based on the category. We then collaborate and build costumes from scratch for each episode; which is so exciting.  

What has been your favorite theme to create costumes for? 

Truly and honestly I think each theme has been brilliant. Because just like those who are in the competition I feel like I’m a part of that competition in a way. If I absolutely had to choose it would be the ‘plastic fantastic ball’ we designed for Leiomy. 

What has it been like working during COVID-19? And how has it been different filming in Los Angeles from NYC for season 1?

Season 1 was challenging my team and I because we filmed in Connecticut. We didn’t have the resources that we needed to create costumes, so we literally had to go back and forth between New York City and the set in Connecticut. At the start of the pandemic my faith was tested. In this industry if you want to eat, you have to work, but there was no real work happening so it was scary for all of us in the industry. After the initial shock, I started working on my brand Diplomacy and I had the space to really allow my mind to operate in a creative way; which was freeing and scary at the same time,I must say. In August, I left for LA because the majority of my projects including Legendary were all being filmed out west.

In your words, what significance has ballroom culture had on fashion and how has Legendary helped to bring that to a wider audience?

Ballroom has always had an indirect connection to fashion. When ballroom kids didn’t have the money to purchase the fashion, they would design it themselves. Then next thing you know, you’ll see the concept on somebody’s runway show. This show has given ballroom the recognition it deserves. It’s no longer considered a group of outcasts, but honestly another realm of artistic creativity that is finally receiving its applause. It amazes me as someone who walked balls years ago, to see major brands such as Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin collaborating with the show. It’s so major!

Now let's talk about you as Creative Director of Diplomacy and Fashion Stylist to the Stars! You're the Creative Director of Diplomacy, a premium streetwear brand that can be shopped in the heart of Manhattan in Macy's on 34th Street. That is a remarkable achievement! What's upcoming and new for the brand? 

Yes, I have been with the streetwear brand Diplomacy for 4 years now. It has been a natural niche for me, designing in this role because streetwear has always been a part of my lifestyle and it’s how my friends and I move about the streets of New York City. We are gearing up to launch our ‘Free the Future’ capsule collection with New Orleans Pelicans star, Wes Iwundu. It will feature a collection of tees, hoodies, shorts and accessories. Through a creative interpretation our collection will tell the story of societal issues we tackle daily. As we did with the Bail Project last spring, our goal is to continue providing support to our communities. This year we will sponsor a local charity in Wes Iwundu’s hometown of Houston, TX.

What are your personal favorite Diplomacy pieces to wear?

My personal favorite Diplomacy piece to wear is the ‘Archibald Crew’. It is definitely my go to sweatshirt. It is available in three colorways and our clientele is always asking for additional colors. It’s a cool, basic that works with anything I wear; whether I am dressing up or down.

You've worked with some of the most iconic names in the entertainment industry including, Beyonce, Future and P. Diddy. What are some of your favorite looks throughout your career that you’ve styled or designed?

One of my all-time favorites is Missy in the inflated patent leather suit for her, ‘I Can’t Stand the Rain’ music video. More recently, I am obsessed with everything from Beyonce’s ‘Formation’ tour. The opening number was exquisite from the laced corset bodysuit to the exaggerated brim of the hats. Even though, I have many moments I love: those are two of my favorite career highlights. 

Those are two tremendous highlights! As a very successful and prominent figure in the fashion and design world, who are some of your favorite new and/or emerging Black fashion designers?

I have to start off by commending Telfar Clemens for changing the game of men/women’s handbags because that is a difficult glass ceiling to break. Kerby Jean-Raymond is continuing to break boundaries with his unique style. Jerry Lorenzo’s aesthetic speaks for itself and he is continuing to grow his brand by marching to the beat of his own drum.