Get To Know CDGA Career Achievement Honoree Francine Jamison-Tanchuck
Francine Jamison-Tanchuck will be honored with the Career Achievement Award at the 26th CDGA (Costume Designers Guild Awards) - the one night a year that designers spend together celebrating their work and their contemporaries.
Francine Jamison-Tanchuck career spans 50 years and encompasses more than 60 films. Her portfolio ranges in genres - from compelling historical dramas such as Regina King’s triple-Oscar-nominated "One Night in Miami" and Michael B. Jordan’s "Just Mercy," to comedic productions like the captivating adventure thriller "They Cloned Tyrone.”
Background
Born in St. Louis, Missouri, to a classical pianist father and a surgical nurse mother, Francine's early years in Birmingham, Alabama, were shaped by awareness of Jim Crow laws and active engagement in civil rights issues. The family's move to Los Angeles provided opportunities for her involvement in school plays and costume design, all while staying committed to civil rights causes.
Francine Jamison-Tanchuck first picked up a needle and thread when she was seven years old. After getting her degree in fashion merchandising and design, she landed an apprenticeship working in different costume shops at the major studios, which is where she saw the impact of costume design firsthand.
She has a vivid memory of handling one dress in particular, a period gown worn by Vanessa Redgrave in 1967's Camelot. "The costume was made out of pumpkin seeds!" she gushes of the John Truscott design, for which he had won an Oscar for Best Costume Design at the 40th Oscars. "It was absolutely amazing."
Jamison-Tanchuck counts legendary costume designers Edith Head, Ann Roth and Aggie Guerard Rodgers as mentors. Her influence extends beyond her work, as she paved the way for future generations by contributing to memorable characters and stories that continue to impact broader culture.
To celebrate this deserving honor, here are ten projects that showcase Francine’s artistry and her forever fashionable stamp on culture.
Nine Films + A Series To Get To Know Francine Jamison-Tanchuck
Glory (1989)
Jamison -Tanchuck holds a special place in her heart for the Civil War epic “Glory" a groundbreaking film, depicting the first all-Black regiment in the Union Army, which earned three Oscars.
Design Note: When watching, notice the details in the military uniforms and consider how many times the designs had to be replicated for war scenes, which includes multiple takes and stunt doubles. Also, notice the aging of the costumes and how specific Francine is when she designs with hats.
White Men Can’t Jump (1992)
The original, of course. Francine depicts an era of Venice Beach filled with trash talking, flashy hustlers while creating the perfect time capsule of the early 90s. Twenty years later, her designs inspired NIKE to release the “White Men Can’t Jump” collection, which included shoes inspired by the movie.
Design Note: Notice how colorful the costumes are. And again how Francine designs with hats and fashion brands. We’re introduced to cycling caps (from brands like 6 Defi and Colnago), graphic t-shirts, jersey shorts, jerseys and layering racerback tanks. And let’s not forget the shoes - LA Gear, Nike Air Retro 6 Infrareds, Converse Fastbreaks and more.
Boomerang (1992)
This film is one of the greatest romantic comedies of all time. In the words of the late/great John Witherspoon, “You’ve got to coordinate.”
Design Note: Notice Marcus Graham’s (Eddie Murphy) impeccable layering. Francine paired his suits with stylish coats and complimentary scares. She spoke to his boldness by pairing turtlenecks with blazers…and even his robes were fly. Off screen, a legion of playboys followed suit. Also, watch how Francine created meaningful monochromatic moments for the ladies. And how she is slowly solidifying that she’s “the hat lady” through Angela (Halle Berry). Yep…we love more hats!
Sister Act 2: Back In The Habit (1993)
There was so much talent introduced in this film, and the message it shared was as positive as the outcome. Francine captured the glam of show girl Deloris Van Cartier back to her religious habit.
Design note: While it’s not a hat, the nun’s religious habit is a sacred headpiece. And by now, even though Francine is still early in her career, we know that she designs with hats. Consider how many habits, robes (including the choirs) and uniforms she had to create. Ultimately it makes the color in the end performance very powerful!
Low Down Dirty Shame (1994)
This action comedy film is a cult classic that rode the success of “In Living Color” giving Kenon Ivory Wayans a chance to showcase his skills in cinema.
Design notes: Francine continued to design the fly-guy of the 90s with Andre Shame (Kenon Ivory Wayans). Two characters to watch for costumes, Peaches (Jada Pickett-Smith) and Bernard (Andrew Shaifer).
Big Momma’s House (2000)
This crime comedy film is where we see Martin Lawrence play a private investigator who goes undercover as a Georgia-based grandmother to capture one of FBI’s most wanted criminals.
Design notes: Pay attention to the doubles. In costumes that means how many times a costume is replicated based on how many stunt doubles and times it takes to shoot an action scene takes. It gets tricky, but Francine delivered. Also notice how she created for Big Momma’s bodysuit.
Kingdom Come (2001)
Based on the Off-Broadway play “Dearly Departed,” this film follows a family who must come together after the death of a family member, whom no one seems to remember with much fondness. It’s hilarious…if you know, you know.
Design Note: Pay close attention to how Francine took all the ladies - no matter how Holy or heinous - to church in hats, which has rich traditions rooted in scripture. Impeccable!
The Wire (2002)
This crime drama television series was created and primarily written by author and former police reporter David Simon so the script is action-packed. Plus it features Michael B. Jordan’s on-screen debut.
Design Note: Pay attention to the turn of the decade - from the late 90s into the early 2000s. Francine led us into the baggy oversized fit denim of the 2000s with brands like EckoUnltd., Enyce and South Pole. Lots of leather and once again…hats!
This Christmas (2007)
Many star-heavy Christmas movies come and go, but this one remains a classic.
Design Notes: In a big family, it’s easy to get lost in the crowd, but notice how Francine focused on everyone’s individuality through their costumes - keeping them true to character. I think we were all in v-neck sweaters paired with a tank, skinny jeans and UGG boots during the holidays that year thanks to Francine via Lauren London.
The Color Purple (2023)
The significance of this film is deeply personal to Jamison-Tanchuck. She was the costume supervisor on the original 1985 film to costume designer and mentor Aggie Guerard Rodgers. The 2023 musical adaptation, co-produced by Steven Spielberg and Oprah Winfrey, felt like a homecoming. Jamison-Tanchuck worked closely with director Blitz Bazawule and the cast to transform the characters through a forty-year span with special considerations for movement.
Design Note: Sit back and be inspired and captivated as Francine takes you on a period-proper design ride from 1909 to 1949.
It is Jamison-Tanchuck’s commitment to bringing truth to the screen which has solidified her legacy in the world of costume design.